Any Esperance local will tell you that there’s a beach for every occasion. Morning or evening, calm or windy, surfing or swimming… whatever the weather and whatever you want to do there – Esperance has a perfect beach for you.
One thing I came to love about Esperance in the time I called it home was just how easy it is to connect with nature. A huge range of incredible beaches are within minutes of your doorstep, and from sun up to sun down, life revolves around the beach.
If you’ve ever visited this coastal town, I’m sure you’ll agree that it is a windy place! My absolute number 1 tip for enjoying the best of Esperance beaches is to get there as early as possible. And I’m talking sunrise-early, especially during the windiest time of year…summer.
What is the most popular Esperance beach?
Esperance beaches don’t get their reputation for nothing – they are all spectacular in their own unique way. That said, the most popular and well-frequented beaches in Esperance are Lucky Bay and Twilight Beach. Crystal clear turquoise waters with pure white sands…these beaches are picture perfect. If you’re only in town for a short time, it would really be a shame to miss these two.
What is the best month to go to Esperance?
Most people imagine hot sunny summer days when they think of Esperance – why wouldn’t you want to cool off at some of the world’s most stunning beaches? But there’s just one thing that might change your mind – the wind. Summer is an incredibly windy time in Esperance, with strong winds constantly coming in from all directions. By midday the beach is so windy that it’s hardly worth going.
That’s why I think the best month to go to Esperance is March or April. The summer winds start to slow down, and the water is still as warm as it gets there. The summer crowds thin out and the town starts to go back to its quiet local life.
Are Esperance beaches safe to swim at?
Esperance has unfortunately seen a number of shark attacks over the years, affecting so many in the community. That being said, if you choose the right place to swim, you’ll be very safe swimming at Esperance’s beaches. Here are a few things to be aware of when choosing a place to swim in Esperance:
- Stay in shallow & clear waters where you can see the bottom
- Don’t swim over dark or weedy areas where you can’t see below
- Read & obey warning signs if you see them
- Look out for rips and strong currents – don’t go in the water if it looks a bit hectic!
- The lagoons (especially 10 Mile and 11 Mile) often have VERY strong undercurrents – the water looks calm and flat but can easily sweep you out to sea. Stay only in knee deep water until you get a feel for what the currents are doing on the day.
One of the safest beaches in Esperance is Twilight Beach – it is patrolled by volunteers at the local surf lifesaving club there during summer, and the waters are shallow and clear.
The most important safety tip for swimming in the ocean is to only swim within your capability. Know your own limits, and if you’re unsure, don’t go in.
Are Esperance beaches dog friendly?
Almost everyone walks their dogs on Esperance’s pristine beaches. Every beach in town is dog friendly and going for an early morning beach walk is a great way to meet the locals and their dogs! If you take your own furry friend down to the beach, make sure you pick up after them and keep them on a leash, especially when it’s busy.
The beaches in Cape Le Grand National Park are a different story though. If you’re heading out to check out any National Parks around Esperance, be sure to make plans to leave your dog in town – dogs are not permitted in any National Park in WA.
My Top 5 Esperance Beaches
It goes without saying that Esperance has some of the most incredible beaches in the world. If you’ve ever stepped foot on one, I’m sure you’ll agree. After spending a year visiting a different Esperance beach every morning and night, I can safely say that it’s almost impossible to choose favourites! But I’ve rounded up a list of my top 5 picks, and the best part is that they’re all 2WD accessible and super easy to get to.
1. Lucky Bay
Given that Lucky Bay was crowned the Number 1 Best Beach in the World in 2023, it just has to go at the top of this list. It’s located in the Cape Le Grand National Park and is famous for its resident kangaroos who have a gander around the sand most mornings and evenings. There’s no denying how spectacular Lucky Bay is, but I must say, there are a lot of Esperance beaches that give it a run for its money!
You can go swimming, fishing, walking, kayaking, SUPing or boating at Lucky Bay… or you could just laze about all day long and enjoy the fresh air and cool sand.
2. Blue Haven
A favourite local haunt, Blue Haven is a bit of a hidden gem. It’s a beautiful spot with a sheltered beach, plus it’s got a smooth rocky outcrop perfect for jumping off on a calm day.
I love watching both sunrise and sunset at Blue Haven. It’s often so quiet (especially during the off-peak times) and is the most incredible place to watch a storm roll in off the ocean. It’s perfect in even the most windy weather, because it’s well sheltered in almost all directions. If you go rock hopping around the outcrop be sure to take care near the edge – the waves are stronger than they look and the rocks much more slippery than you’d think.
3. Little Hellfire
Another incredible hidden gem, and one of my all-time favourite Esperance beaches, is Little Hellfire. You might have already heard of Hellfire Bay in Cape Le Grand National Park, but I bet you haven’t heard of little Hellfire – its smaller and quieter cousin.
This one requires a short walk to get to, but your efforts will be greatly rewarded. You can park at the Hellfire Bay carpark and take the Coastal Walk Trail to Little Hellfire. The walk is 1.8km return and won’t take you much longer than 15 minutes each way. It’s a wide gravel/limestone track that goes over some gentle rolling hills and through the coastal scrub.
Spend an hour or spend the day – the choice is yours. Want to know the best thing? If you’re hot and sweaty by the time you get back to your car, you can just jump in the water at Hellfire Bay to cool off before you hit the road again!
4. Twilight Beach
One of Esperance’s major drawcards is Twilight Beach. It’s been photographed countless times with dolphins and whales swimming through its calm turquoise blue waters. It’s the perfect swimming beach because of how calm and protected it is, plus it’s patrolled in summer by the volunteer lifesavers. Twilight Beach also has an epic jumping rock that you can swim out to – great fun for kids of all ages.
Although Twilight Beach is less popular among locals, it’s a great beginner surfing spot. With small but consistent waves and a sandy bottom, there are usually weekly surf lessons held there during the warmer months.
This beach is located just a 10-minute drive out of town on Twilight Beach Road (which is also called the Great Ocean Drive).
5. 11 Mile Lagoon
11 Mile is another local secret (sort of) and is the last beach you can visit on the Great Ocean Drive. It’s perfect for snorkelling, walking and relaxing. The lagoon is usually well protected from big waves but can be awful if the wind is too strong!
I love 11 Mile because it’s usually much less busy than the other beaches closer to town, plus it offers something different than long stretches of white sand. Don’t be shocked by the section of beach on the east side of the carpark beyond the rocks that’s a dedicated nude beach.
If you do visit 11 Mile Lagoon, be very careful walking over the rocks, especially near the crashing waves on the outer edge. Undercurrents can be very strong, so stay in shallow water until you know what the water is doing.
Cape Le Grand National Park
If you’re planning to head out to Lucky Bay, you’ll be entering Cape Le Grand National Park. Lucky Bay is the last stop on the road, and there are a number of gorgeous beaches on the way. In my opinion, all of the beaches on the way are worth a stop, and most of them are just as good, if not better than Lucky Bay!
There’s also a walking trail, the Coastal Walk Trail, that traverses the headlands, scrub, and beaches all the way from Le Grand Beach, past Lucky Bay, out to Rossiter Bay. From the high points on the trail, you will see countless little coves and beaches that cannot be accessed by vehicles or even really on foot. If you wanted to get to them, you’d need a boat! The Coastal Trail is probably my favourite hiking trail in all of Western Australia, and has a surprising amount of challenging terrain, spectacular high viewpoints, rock hopping and beach walking. The wildlife and biodiversity are absolutely incredible too – every single time I walk it I see something new.
Honourable mention goes to Rossiter Bay
It’s the final beach after Lucky Bay and there’s only a gravel road to get there. The beach is often filled with seaweed and not the same turquoise blue as Esperance is known for. There is 4WD beach access though, and experienced drivers could drive all the way to Dunn Rocks from there. Beware though – the sand is incredibly soft and the tide often so far in that there’s almost no beach left – it’s for experts only.
To get to the good bits at Cape Le Grand National Park, expected about a 60km drive from Esperance town centre, which takes about 45 minutes to an hour. Standard National Park entry fees apply.
6. Hellfire Bay
The big cousin to Little Hellfire, Hellfire Bay is yet another Esperance drawcard. You could easily spend an entire day soaking up the sun there. There are some big granite outcrops that roll into the ocean that you can walk along and explore, or you could even throwing a fishing line in the water.
Hellfire Bay is perfect for swimming, SUPing and maybe even some longboarding. If you’re feeling energetic, you can take a hike to the end of the beach to find an interesting inlet and the entrance to the Coastal Walk Trail. If you want an amazing view of the blue water, follow the Coastal Trail up to the top of the big rock that overlooks the beach.
7. Thistle Cove
Thistle Cove is another of my absolute favourite Esperance beaches…
The Coastal Walk Trail passes over the headland on both sides of the long stretch of white sand, plus there’s a protected alcove between the rocks that’s perfect for sheltering from the afternoon wind.
Thistle Cove’s big secret is the lovely hidden beach at the end of the long sandy stretch. There’s another beach hidden behind the rock outcrop that’s got some cool little tide pools and an array of shells and sea creatures floating about. Stumbling onto this beach while I was walking the Coastal Trail has got to be one of my favourite memories – seeing this hidden beach appear as I emerged from the scrub with not a soul in sight was just magical.
8. Le Grand Beach
This beach is a 4WD-ers dream. It’s the first beach in Cape Le Grand National Park, and you can drive all the way back to Esperance along the beach from there. Of course, you should only do that in a suitable vehicle. Some stretches of sand can get incredibly soft, countless people have been bogged there over the years.
There’s a little campground nestled behind the shrubs at Le Grand Beach, and it’s also the starting point of the Coastal Walk Trail.
Best Swimming Beaches
While Twilight Beach is probably the calmest, most family friendly and safest beach in Esperance, there are lots of other amazing places to swim. Although I’ve already mentioned them, 11 Mile Lagoon and Blue Haven are some of my favourite places to swim in Esperance. Here’s a couple more great swimming beaches.
9. James Street Beach Enclosure
The James Street Beach (or the Esplanade Beach, or the Foreshore) is about as close to town as you can get. In 2021, a new pontoon with swimming lanes and a shark net enclosure was installed in the bay. One of the things I loved most about living in Esperance was my early-morning swim at the pontoon. It’s a great community gathering place and encompasses just what life is about in Esperance.
On a hot summer’s day, the area is also a great place to bring the family. There’s another pontoon, a jetty to bombie off, and even a slide for endless fun!
You’ll find the pontoon next to the big Whale Tail at the end of James Street.
10. Nine Mile Lagoon
If snorkelling is something you’re into, be sure to check out Nine Mile Lagoon. This one can be a bit sketchy sometimes, but on a good day it’s awesome. Just make sure you pick the right wind and tides – on the wrong day the waves will pump in over the rocks and the undercurrent will try to pull you out to sea. On the right day though, you’ll be able to bathe in the cool water and relax in this lesser-frequented lagoon. Make sure you wear a pair of thongs down the stairs – there’s no soft sandy landing at the bottom!
Best Long Walk on the Beach
If a long romantic walk on the beach is more your style, I’m happy to report that there are plenty of options.
11. Lovers Beach (Lovers Cove)
Even though I’ve said the word ‘hidden’ a bunch of times already, this is another hidden Esperance beach! You’ve got to do a bit of walking to get down to Lovers Cove, but it’s well worth it if you ask me. Take the Rotary Walk Trail from the top of the Dempster Head/Rotary Lookout and follow the trial markers down to the beach. The trails around there are pretty confusing, so do your best to stick to one instead of meandering off over the rocks.
The Rotary Trail has more than one route, there are a few loop walks you could take. It’s hard to get truly lost there but trust me when I say not to try and cut through the scrub! It will end in nothing but getting even more lost and very scratched up. The beach at Lovers Cove is small, and there are some gnarly rips and undercurrents – so I wouldn’t advise swimming there.
My best advice for this one – follow someone else who knows where they’re going, ask locals for directions, and go early in the day.
12. Castletown Beach
Castletown Beach is a true locals beach. It is within walking distance of a big portion of Esperance’s population, so it’s understandably popular early in the mornings and at sunset.
Start anywhere from the start of Goldfields Road and walk north along the beach. I personally love a sunrise or sunset walk starting at the old jetty at the end of Chaplin Street. You’ll find absolutely beautiful skies which are even more amazing on a stormy afternoon. Sit and watch the ships come in and out of the Port, or on the right day jump in the water for a quick swim.
13. Observatory Beach
Observatory Beach is a great one for a nice walk, and it’s even better at sunset on a calm day. Park at the Observatory Beach Carpark (not Observatory Point) and walk either way along this long stretch of beach. The best time to go during summer is in the morning because the beach is south-west facing and often cops the afternoon winds. If you’re lucky enough to snag a wind-free evening, sunset is spectacular there.
Best Esperance Beaches at Sunrise
There are countless Esperance beaches you can enjoy at sunrise, but there are a few that are bound to offer up the best views. I know I’ve already mentioned Blue Haven as one of my favourite beaches, but it’s amazing at sunrise too. Have a look at the list below to discover the best places to watch sunrise in Esperance.
14. Twilight Beach Lookout
This one is not so easy to find – you have to park the car and take a little walk to get there. It’s nothing fancy but it does have a great view to the east over Twilight Beach – which is perfect for watching the sunrise. Park the car at the roadside carpark just before you hit the main Twilight Beach carpark, and take the Great Ocean Trail for about 300 metres. Turn left up the steep gravel path and you’ll eventually get to the lookout.
If you’re someone who loves a sunrise hike, the place in Esperance that can’t be beaten is Frenchman Peak. Check out my guide to this epic hike and find out why you can’t miss it at sunrise.
15. Esperance Foreshore
While the Esperance Foreshore is not technically a beach, it is one of the best places to catch the sunrise. Grab a coffee from the Coffee Cat and stroll along the Tanker Jetty while the sun comes up. You could also walk along the Esplanade back towards town, watching as the streets come alive.
16. Rotary Lookout
The Rotary Lookout is located at the top of Dempster Head, which is the starting point for the Lovers Cove/Rotary Walk Trail. The great thing about this one is that it’s easy to access and perfect for those of you who love to see the beach but not get sandy feet! You can park your car and be at the top of the lookout in under a minute. With full 360° views over Esperance and the ocean, this is the perfect place to witness sunrise.
Best Esperance Beaches at Sunset
Well… I can’t list EVERY BEACH in Esperance as the best beach to watch the sunset, so you’ll just have to trust me on this one. Here’s why I think West Beach is the best place to watch sunset…
17. West Beach
This is perhaps the most popular Esperance beach with the locals. It’s a meeting place, a surfer’s dream, and a dog-walkers paradise. You can choose to walk all the way down the stairs to get your feet in the sand, or you can sit on one of the benches at the top and watch the world go by.
No matter how you choose to spend your sunset, there’s always friendly faces, good chats, and dogs to pat at West Beach.
What to do if it’s windy?
Wind is always a deciding factor for which beach you choose on any given day. Lucky for those visiting Esperance, there’s a beach that faces just about every direction. The best way to have a good time at the beach when it’s windy it to check the wind direction and choose a beach before you go. Pick one where the wind isn’t blowing directly onshore, and if there’s a big headland blocking the wind you’ll have a much better time.
For example, Blue Haven and Twilight Beach are perfect in a south-westerly wind. Whereas 11 Mile Lagoon and West Beach can be good when trying to shelter from an easterly wind.
Best Esperance Beach for Whale Watching
Almost every beach is a whale-watching beach in Esperance – you just have to be there at the right time! My best tip is to get up high – there are loads of lookouts and high points along Twilight Beach Road (Great Ocean Drive) that are perfect for spotting whales. During winter, whales migrate northwards to breed, but they stick close to the coast for shelter and rest. There have been some incredible whale sightings and encounters at Twilight Beach over the years…you never know your luck.
18. Observatory Point
Observatory Point offers 360° views of the ocean from the top of a high staircase. Take the road down to the carpark and climb to the top of the big staircase – just watch out for gusty and strong winds! Although this is a great place to look for whales, unless it’s a super calm evening, it’s rare that it makes for a good sunset spot.
Best Surfing beaches in Esperance
There are lots of places that are perfect for a surf in Esperance, and I’ve mentioned some of them already. West Beach is the most popular surfing beach for locals, and Twilight Beach is an awesome beginner surfing beach. There’s plenty of other places I’ve seen people surfing – so get out and explore!
Kitesurfing
This may be a very niche beach activity, but kitesurfing is a surprisingly popular sport in Esperance.
19. Fourth Beach
Fourth Beach is the kitesurfing beach in Esperance. But the thing to know is that it can be pretty dangerous if you don’t know what you’re doing. The wind is of course very strong there, and so are the currents, plus the bottom is very rocky. I’ve never swum there and would definitely not recommend it. But if you’re a kitesurfer…it’s a dream.
Half-Day 4WD Beach Adventures
Are you looking for a quick trip to get a taste of four wheel driving in Esperance? I’ve got the perfect beaches for you. These beaches are great if you want to park up and relax for an afternoon. Cook up a meal out the back of the car, fly your drone or go for a quick SUP – the ultimate chill time is waiting for you. Both of these beaches are less than a 15 minute drive from Esperance town centre.
20. Wylie Bay
Wylie Bay is one of the most frequented local 4WD haunts. You can drive straight off the road and onto the sand, no permits or park entry fees required. If you’re super keen you can even drive all the way to Le Grand Beach from there – just make sure you know what you’re doing and that you have all your 4WD recovery equipment with you. Also be mindful of sharks if you go for a swim at the beach there. Don’t ignore warning signs and always swim in shallow water where you can easily see the sandy bottom.
21. Bandy Creek
Want to find a beach for a sunset BBQ and beers? Take yourself down to Bandy Creek and pull up a spot on the sand. I’ve got fond memories of sundowners and late-evening summer swims at Bandy Creek – it’s sheltered from the strong winds and is even dog friendly.
Best Beaches Out of Town
Are you up for a drive to explore what’s beyond Esperance itself? This next beach is one of the most incredible beaches near Esperance, and many people’s absolute favourite Esperance beach. Plenty of people even rate it higher on their list than Lucky Bay!
22. Wharton Beach
Clear blue water, rolling waves and a long stretch of squeaky white sand – this fits the bill for a perfect Esperance beach. It’s located on the opposite side of Duke of Orleans Bay, ‘the Duke’ for short, where locals love to come and spend their summer holidays. Wharton Beach is awesome for surfing, SUPing, swimming, 4WDing, walking, and everything else you love to do at the beach. You can also bring your dog to Wharton Beach because it’s not in a National Park.
If you’re hoping to nab a spot at the Duke of Orleans caravan park, make sure you book WELL in advance during summer and school holidays. It has gained some serious popularity over the last few years and locals now wrestle with tourists for bookings at the caravan park.
To get to Wharton Beach, you’ll need to drive 93km east of town, which takes about 1 hour.
Beach beaches for the Adventurous – Four Wheel Drive Only
For some serious 4WDing with some serious rewards, these next beaches are pristine and secluded. They also make the perfect bases for camping and fishing. Like anywhere on earth – the places that are the hardest to get to are the places that are most rewarding!
If you do plan to head out to these beaches, be sure you have considered the following:
- There’s limited/no mobile phone reception
- No amenities (no toilets, no water, no fuel)
- Most tracks are unsealed and very rough
- You must be self-sufficient – including 4WD recovery gear, water, food, fuel and emergency communication
- Be respectful of the natural environment – it will only stay pristine if you look after it
- Stick to existing tracks
- Don’t drive up into sand dunes, especially if there’s reeds or plants growing there
As always when 4WDing in places like this, be sure to take it slow. You never know when there’ll be a big drop-off or hole in the track, or when someone will be coming the other way.
23. Alexander Bay (4WD Only)
About 120km east of Esperance, you’ll arrive at Alexander Bay in about 1.5 hours. It’s an awesome natural playground and you can also camp there, but there’s no bookings. It’s first come first served, so if you’re heading out there during the quiet periods, you’re bound to snag a great campsite.
24. Thomas River (4WD Only)
We did an unforgettable 4WD camping trip out to Thomas River one Easter, and it couldn’t have been more idyllic! It was tyre-pressures down, travelling in a group, and a few hairy moments, but it was so much fun. We had sunsets on the sand, played handball, frisbee, games and had campfires on the beach. It’s a great spot for fishing too.
Thomas River is slightly further east than Alexander Bay, about 120km, a 1.5-hour drive from Esperance. It’s located on the western end of Cape Arid National Park, so you’ll need to pay standard National Park entry or have a Parks Pass with you.
There are 2 campgrounds at Thomas River which are located at the end of the gravel access road. Both campsites are 2WD accessible, and they have basic amenities (long drops and picnic tables).
25. Membinup Beach (4WD Only)
Yet another incredible location with white sands and turquoise blue water, Membinup Beach is a 4WD paradise. This one is slightly closer to Esperance, 100km east of town about a 1 hour and 15 minute drive. You can also drive the 4WD track from Wharton Beach to Membinup – but it’s a pretty bumpy ride.
Beware though – the soft sand gets people every time! There are no facilities at Membinup Beach and camping is not permitted there. Although there are plenty of websites that’ll tell you where to camp, if you do decide to camp out there it’s completely at your own risk.
Fishing
Fishing in Esperance can be a bit of an extreme sport – there have been countless rescues over the years for people slipping off rocks or getting washed in by big waves. It’s easy to slip down into the water even when you are being careful.
Beach fishing sounding more enticing now? Be careful there too – the wind and waves are ferocious. Try to keep your distance from the waves and always tell someone where you are. If you decide to swim in any of these locations, use extreme caution. These places are remote, and help is a long way away.
26. Salmon Beach
You don’t have to travel far to get to a good fishing beach in Esperance. Salmon Beach is located only a 10 minute drive out of town along Twilight Beach Road. And you guessed it, you can catch the winter salmon run there.
27. Munglinup Beach
The first beach on this list that’s actually located to the west of Esperance, Munglinup Beach is a popular camping and fishing destination for many locals. At Munglinup Beach you’ll find all your favourite beach classics – skippy, herring, whiting, and maybe even a cheeky squid. There’s also a boat launch area in the lagoon at Munglinup Beach.
28. Tagon Beach (Little Tagon & Lashari Beach)
This is one for the extreme 4WD-ers! Located near Thomas River Campground, access to Tagon Beach is 4WD only. The tracks are bumpy, but no big drama if you come prepared. Great for fishing, Tagon beach is remote and secluded.
Bonus – Snorkelling Island Retreat!
If you liked hearing about the best beaches for snorkelling in Esperance, you’ll love this one.
29. Shearwater Bay – Woody Island
Esperance is known for its many granite islands dotted throughout the ocean – a sunset vista just isn’t complete without an island in the background. Woody Island is one of the most locally famous, and it’s the only one with a pub, campground, café, and glamping tents.
If you’re up for the adventure, you can catch the Ferry over to the island and snorkel around Shearwater Bay. It’s got some of the best cold-water snorkelling around Esperance and is a lovely, sheltered alcove. Make sure you check out all the life underneath the jetty too!
Want to Know more about Esperance?
Although Esperance beaches are nothing short of spectacular – that’s not the only thing to do there. Check out this list of 37 unique things to do when you visit Esperance and discover some more local tips and hidden places. Think amazing food, pubs, coffee, cycling, hiking, markets, locally baked goodies, live music gigs and so much more.
