By far one of my favourite places at El Questro, and absolutely one of the most underrated, is Champagne Springs. It’s not like the other natural attractions at El Questro – it’s modest and quiet, and an absolutely spectacular place to just take a moment.
If you’re wondering what to expect when hiking to Champagne Springs El Questro, keep reading. You’ll learn how to stay safe on this challenging and hot walk, the best time to go, the amazing wildlife, swimming, visitor permits, drones, and more.
Champagne Springs Hike: Need to Know
Here’s the key things you need to know about the Champagne Springs hiking trail at El Questro:
- Type: Out and back
- Distance: 9 km return
- Difficulty: Hard/moderate
- Grade: 5
- Elevation Gain: 127m
- Time: 5-6 hours
The key thing to remember about not only Champagne Springs, but all of the hikes at El Questro – is that the heat makes everything slower and more difficult. A 9km hike might not sound like much, but when you’re walking along exposed rocks with the sun reflecting into your face, it gets very hot and tiring very quickly. Don’t underestimate this trail!
It took me about 2 hours to get from the carpark to Champagne Springs at a quick pace. The only reason this was possible for me was because I left just before sunrise. I wanted to get there to enjoy the serenity of the pool before it got crowded, and I wanted to be able start the hike back before it got too hot.
The terrain is quite a challenge
Although the hike to Champagne Springs is largely ‘flat’ most of the way, there is a surprising amount of variety in the terrain.
You can expect some rocky/pebbly creek bed walking, some sandy walking, and quite a bit of shade on the first half of the trail. There’s lots of beautiful, lush forest and plenty of places to stop beside the river.
Once you get to the second half, the terrain changes dramatically. The second half of the trail traverses through low shrub cover and over rocky outcrop – much more open and exposed to the sun. You’ll also be gradually ascending on the second half, so be sure to save some energy.
Depending on time of year, you might stay totally dry during the walk, but if it’s been raining at all, you’ll likely be walking through some very wet and muddy sections. When I did the hike in late May, there were a couple of low-lying points along the trail where I had to cross over water-logged and soggy patches of dirt…which made for some fun log-balancing and a little extra adventure!
Directional signage is limited
The Champagne Springs trail is quite easy to follow for the first half. You’ll find a well-trodden track through the lush forest, and you’ll have no troubles finding your way. Once you get to the exposed rocky section though, it’ll require a little more attention.
When walking over the rocky parts it’s easy to lose your way – there aren’t very many trail markers and the well-worn dirt trail gives way to open expanses of rock. The rocky section of the trail doesn’t follow particularly close to the creek either, so using that as a guide isn’t always helpful. Here’s what you can do to make sure you don’t lose your way on the trail:
- Take it slow.
- Be observant and try to always keep at least one trail marker in sight.
- If you start feeling lost, stop immediately & look around.
- If you can’t see the track or markers up ahead, carefully re-trace your steps until you find the trail again.
- Remember that the creek is a useful landmark to follow if you’re desperate, but after the halfway point the trail diverts from the creek quite a lot.
- If you feel really lost, the best thing to do is stop walking.
- Wait until someone else comes past and ask to join them, or use your backup communication or navigation devices.
Heat & the best time of day to go
No matter what time of year you visit Champagne Springs at El Questro, it’s going to be hot. And it’s more than likely going to be humid too. This means you’ll need plenty of water, sun-protective clothing, a good hat, and sunscreen.
As for getting the most out of the hike? Go early. I mean, pack up your day-pack the night before and head out before the sun is up. Get on your phone the night before to check what time sunrise will be, and make sure you start walking at least 20 minutes before that.
When I hiked Champagne Springs in late May, I started my hike before 6am and made it to the end in about 2 hours. I took my time at the pool and started walking back at about 9.30am – by that time it was HOT. By the time I got back to the carpark I was absolutely roasting and in need of another swim and some shade!
Not sure what you need to pack for the hike? Check out this article to find the 31 Vital Items that should be on your day-hiking checklist.
Water
Relying on the water in the creek for drinking is a terrible idea – although it might save you if you’re desperate. To avoid any near misses, you’ll need to carry all your drinking water with you. I would personally recommend a bare minimum of 4 litres per person for this hike. You’ll need more if you’re planning to hike later in the day, i.e. leaving the carpark any time after sunrise.
I took my 3L bladder full of water plus a 1 litre bottle and finished the whole lot by the time I got back to the start of the trail. Given that the start of the trail is very close to El Questro Station, you’ll get away with not having a backup water supply in your vehicle. But the best practice for hiking in any remote location, such as El Questro, is to keep a 10L or 20L water container in your car at all times, in addition to what you carry with you on your hike.
There’s a magnificent pool at the end of the trail
Most people say they’re a bit disappointed when they arrive at Champagne Springs, especially after having seen the grandeur of Emma Gorge and Zebedee Springs with their huge rock walls. But Champagne Springs has its own unique beauty.
As the name alludes to, Champagne Springs is actually a thermal spring that’s fed from underground. This is why the pools are able to hold water all year round, even while the rest of the river appears to be hardly flowing. There’s a gently bubbling waterfall that feeds into the main pool at Champagne Springs, which makes the perfect swimming spot. The edges of the pool are shaded by a peculiar mix of huge gum trees and tropical palms, which create a lovely oasis to sit and observe. I absolutely loved how quiet the pool was, I felt so calm as I let the water take my thoughts and float them gently downstream.
Although it’s a spring, the water was not warm! It was the perfect cool and refreshing temperature you’d hope for at the end of a tough hike. If true hot springs are more your thing, the best place to experience that at El Questro is Zebedee Springs. Check out this guide to learn more!
I imagine that the quiet bubbling spring would be a different story closer to the wet season, perhaps making for a spectacular raging flow of water over the rocks. A word of warning though – there’s no swimming permitted downstream from the main pool. This is due to the freshwater crocodiles that typically inhabit those pools.
Crocodiles at Champagne Springs
You can never rule out meeting a freshwater crocodile in any waterhole in the Kimberley, and the greatest chance of encountering them is during the wet season. Freshwater crocodiles are known to inhabit the lower pools at Champagne Springs (Champagne Pools).
You never know when you’ll come across a freshwater crocodile, even in the main pool at Champagne Springs. Here’s what you can do to ensure there are no surprises for you or any reptiles:
- Go slow and be cautious when getting into the water.
- Sit and observe the water & edges of the pool for 5 minutes before you get in.
- Get into the water slowly, jumping isn’t the best idea.
- If you do see a crocodile, don’t go in the water, and do not approach it.
- Freshwater crocodiles are not aggressive animals, but they will defend themselves if they feel backed into a corner or threatened.
Parking & mobile phone reception
The start of the Champagne Springs hiking trail is located next to the main river crossing (the Pentecost River) before you get to El Questro Station. The carpark at the trailhead is more of an odd-shaped gravel area than a carpark, so leaving your car at the Station is a better option.
You can expect poor to no phone reception on the Champagne Springs walking trail with Telstra, Optus, or any other provider. Relying on your mobile phone as your only communication device is not a good idea. Carrying an emergency locator beacon or other SOS device is the best way to stay safe when hiking in remote areas like El Questro.
Safety precautions
Hiking in remote areas can be some of the most rewarding adventures, but they’re never without risk. There are a few essential safety precautions you should consider taking if you’re planning to hike Champagne Springs or any other trail at El Questro:
- Carry a first aid kit & snake bandages.
- Bring adequate drinking water supplies.
- Carry lunch & snacks.
- Wear enclosed, comfortable, supportive footwear.
- Never rely on your mobile phone for navigation or emergency communication.
- Carry backup navigation and emergency communication devices with you (like this personal locator beacon that you can find at Anaconda stores).
Getting to Champagne Springs
The start of the Champagne Springs hiking trail is located only about 400 metres from the El Questro Station along El Questro Road. If you’re staying at the Station, you could easily leave your car there and walk to the start of the trail.
As for getting to El Questro Station in the first place, you’ll need a high clearance 4WD and a plan! It’s located about 100km west of Kununurra, and there are gravel roads and water crossings on the way.
As always – leave no trace
Just as you would when you visit any natural place, be sure to leave the place better than you found it. This means sticking to the marked tracks, picking up rubbish even if it’s not yours, taking all your rubbish with you (including toilet paper), and following the instructions on the map you’ll see at the start of the trail.
All the wildlife, including plants and animals, are protected at El Questro. They are special, unique, and many of them are found nowhere else on earth. Don’t get too close to wild animals and avoid picking flowers or walking over shrubs. Also be careful not to touch or move aboriginal artefacts or rock art that you might see.
Visitor Permits
A visitor permit is required to enter El Questro because it’s privately run (it is not in a National Park). Similar to paying a National Park Entry Fee, the cost of your visitor permit will go towards maintaining the roads and trails to the natural attractions at El Questro, as well as in conservation efforts, weed eradication and fire management.
The visitor permit fee will be included in the cost of your accommodation if you are staying anywhere on the property. Although unlikely given that El Questro is so remote, if you’re just doing a day trip, you’ll need to get a permit. You can find out more about getting a visitor permit on the El Questro website.
No drones & no dogs
Drones aren’t allowed to be flown anywhere at El Questro unless you get special permission from the owners. This is because there are lots of helicopters and planes that use the El Questro airspace. Dogs are not allowed at any of El Questro’s natural attractions, but you can bring them to the campgrounds.
The wildlife & landscape are spectacular
If you haven’t already cottoned on, the land and its life are nothing short of magic at El Questro.
There’s an incredible ancient boab tree at the halfway point of the Champagne Springs walking trail. I sat for a while under her huge canopy and just had a moment. I wasn’t the first and I won’t be the last to be humbled by the beauty of that tree – and all of the other incredible life – at El Questro.
The variety of wildlife at El Questro is truly amazing. There are tropical palms but there are also huge river gum trees. There’s countless birds, marsupials, spiders, snakes, and butterflies hiding everywhere.
El Questro sits on the Traditional Lands of the Wanjina Wungurr Wilinggin and Balanggarra people. In 2022, 165,000 hectares of the El Questro pastoral lease was finally returned to its Traditional Owners after years of foreign ownership. This means that livestock can be removed from the land, and works can begin to restore the natural environment. It is hoped that Traditional Owners can work with the tourism lease holders of El Questro to bring more first nations knowledge and cultural experiences to the people visiting El Questro.
What I loved most about El Questro was pausing for a while…
…To truly feel the magic of this incredible land. There are stories weaved for thousands of years through the rocks and the trees, and I felt honoured to be walking among them.
Keen to explore more of El Questro?
If you want to know what else there is to discover at El Questro, you can check out this guide to hiking Emma Gorge. You’ll find out exactly why it’s one of El Questro’s most popular hikes.
