If you’ve ever visited the Esperance region you might understand why I say the Hakea Trail is WA’s BEST trail…
The coastline is rugged and spectacular, the skies are forever mysterious, the wildflowers are like nowhere else on the planet and you won’t see anyone for hours at a time. If you want to reconnect with nature, I would highly recommend doing this one solo.
Never been overnight hiking by yourself? It’s OK, neither had I the first time I walked this trail! I was living in Esperance at the time and wanted to experience all that the region has to offer. I carefully packed up my bag for a 3-day weekend in the east Fitzgerald River National Park. I’d heard that it was absolutely magic in the springtime, and it truly was.
Where is the Hakea Trail?
The Hakea Trail lies within the Fitzgerald River National Park, which spans a large portion of the south coast of WA between Hopetoun in the east and Bremer Bay in the west. It is rugged, untouched, and a long way from most things. The park is split geographically into two by the Fitzgerald River (who would’ve thought) – the East and the West sides, and you cannot drive all the way through the National Park.
Access to the East side is via Hopetoun, which is a 6-hour drive from Perth, and a 2-hour drive from Esperance. Attractions in the east side of the park include East Mount Barren, Cave Point, Sepulcralis Hill, and Hamersley Inlet. All except Sepulcralis Hill are accessible by 2WD on a sealed road. If you wish to venture beyond Hamersley Inlet I would recommend a 4WD as the roads become unsealed and much more hairy the further west you go!
Access to the West side of the park is via Bremer Bay and the South Coast Highway. Bremer Bay is a 5.5-hour drive from Perth, and a 2-hour drive from Albany. Attractions in the west include Point Ann and West Mount Barren, and I would consider the west to be a lot more difficult to access (I certainly wouldn’t attempt it without a 4WD!).
Who Is This Trail For?
If you’re still with me at this point, the best is yet to come. Although you don’t need to hike anywhere or do any mad 4WD-ing to see the East Fitzgerald, you will see so much more if you do (hike that is, not 4WD). The great thing about the Hakea Trail is that you can choose to do short day-sections on the eastern end if you’ve come with friends, or you could commit to the whole thing – all 24km of it (that’s 24km one way, from Cave Point to Quoin Head).
The trail itself is a Grade 4 walk, meaning tracks are very long, rough and steep. Prior bushwalking experience is recommended. If you’re attempting the Hakea Trail in its entirety, or solo, I would consider carrying emergency first aid and a location device – there is no phone reception and it’s a very remote location – help could be a long way away.
That being said, most of the trail is fairly easy to follow with well worn sandy or rocky tracks. The trail markers are abundant, and there are really great detailed markers at certain points of interest – they tell you exact distances to other points along the trail.
I did manage to divert away from the track a few times through the low shrub near Quoin Head but kept walking in the right general direction until I met up with the trail again. In sections where rocky/sandy patches are prevalent throughout the landscape, its pretty easy to confuse these with the trail. The great thing about the Hakea Trail is that it follows the coast, so you can’t really get too lost.
The trail is largely ‘flat’, making it a fairly easy walk. But beware, there are a few areas where you traverse across/up gentle slopes that feel like they will never end. You’ll go up and down over a few big rocky headlands and through a few channel valleys, so don’t expect flatness all the way. It’ll be just enough to keep you warm while the Antarctic air whips right through you. There’s also a decent stretch of beach walking on the way to Hamersley Inlet as well as a few flat rocky beach traverses.
I agree that bushwalking experience is necessary to tackle this trail, mainly due to the fact of its remoteness. As always, being properly prepared and planning your journey make all the difference.
How To Get There
Getting to the area is the hardest part of the Hakea Trail! Once you’ve done the big drive from Perth you probably won’t be setting out to hike on the same day. You could stay the night in Hopetoun or you could drive down to the beautiful Hamersley Inlet and camp the night before you set off.
Bookings for Hamersley Inlet Campground have changed since I last visited, booking is now run by the Shire of Ravensthorpe and a site costs $16 per night. Since there is limited mobile phone reception out there it’s essential to book online before heading out. The campground has a basic camp kitchen with a BBQ, drop loo toilets, is neatly laid out and is super tidy – a really pleasant place to stay to rest up before your hike.
The Hamersley Inlet Campground is only a 10-minute drive to Cave Point (the start of the Hakea Trail).
Cost of Entry
You will be required to pay the standard entry cost for a WA National Park, or have an Annual Parks Pass. A standard vehicle costs $15 per day ($8 concession), or an All Parks Annual Pass costs $120 for the year. Hiking the trail itself does not incur any additional fees.
Best Time of Year to Visit
The southern coast of WA is renowned for being harsh – winter is not your friend on this one! My favourite time of year to visit is Spring…for obvious reasons.
The region is home to the Fitzgerald Biosphere, a UNESCO Reserve that contains more than 800 rare and threatened plant and animal species – 79% of its plant species don’t exist anywhere else on earth. It’s for this reason that witnessing the landscape in full spring bloom is a magical experience. It’s impossible to imagine the sheer variety and vibrancy of wildflowers you’ll see on your visit, which are stunning to see on both a grand scale and up-close. It’s one of the few remaining places in WA where so many types of biologically important woodlands and shrublands remain, giving you the opportunity to experience what the entire region once was, and to gather an understanding of why we must protect it.
I visited in September when the wildflowers where absolutely peaking – but check the local weather forecasts leading up to your trip to make sure you avoid any big rains. I know it’s not always possible to be so flexible, so you might just have to trust the universe and your rain jacket!
Accessing the Trail – Where to Start?
The Hakea Trail officially starts at Cave Point, but you can also access it from West Beach and the Hamersley Inlet carpark. If you’re limited on time or new to overnight hiking, I would recommend cutting the trail in half by starting from Hamersley Inlet and heading out to Quoin Head. Make sure to factor in the 1.7km hike from the Hamersley Carpark out to the river mouth where it joins the Hakea Trail.
If you’re leaving a vehicle in any carpark overnight, be sure to speak with the Rangers beforehand, and let a family member or friend know where you are and when you plan to return.
How Long Will It Take?
The entire Hakea Trail can be completed over two days (1 night), but it can take longer if you want it to! I am quite a slow walker because I just cannot resist stopping every five seconds to watch a tiny insect, look at an interesting plant, or take in spectacular views.
I met a group of hikers while I was at Whalebone Creek who had arrived at Cave Point about 1pm that day, and absolutely smashed out the entire walk – even out to Quoin Head and back to Whalebone before the night had fallen…a total of 29km! But that pace isn’t for me – if you’re a slow hiker like me, I would plan for a minimum of two WHOLE days out there. That way you can take your time and really enjoy the abundance of life around you.
I like to think of the hike in three main sections (plus the extra walk from Hamersley Beach to the Inlet campground):
- Cave Point to Hamersley Beach – 9.3 km
- Hamersley Beach to the Hamersley Inlet Campground – 1.7 km
- Hamersley Beach to Whalebone Creek – 8.3 km
- Whalebone Creek to Quoin Head – 6.2 km
The variety in local ecosystems will astound you – every few kilometres of this entire hike you will see new pockets of flowers, plants and geology. There’s something new to see on every leg of the journey, which is why you cannot rush.
Trails WA has a great brochure and map you can find here. It’s really the only planning tool I used besides having AllTrails maps downloaded to my phone as a backup.
Overnight Camp at Whalebone Creek
If you’re staying overnight you’ll probably be staying at the Whalebone Creek Campground. It’s got an awesome hut with bunks and picnic tables, a water tank and a drop toilet. There are also a few small cleared camp sites for setting up your tent if you opt not to stay in the hut. Make sure you fill out the visitor book when you get there, I really enjoyed reading about others’ experiences of this exceptionally beautiful trail.
Insider Advice!
My next piece of advice is the one thing I wish I’d known before I did the hike. If you choose to push on to see Quoin Head – drop off your overnight gear at camp, and maybe even set up your tent before you head off.
When I arrived at Whalebone Creek, I wasn’t sure if I’d make it all the way out to Quoin Head and back before dark, and I thought I might stay at Quoin Head the night. So I took all my gear, got completely exhausted, and ended up coming all the way back to stay at Whalebone for the night anyway. Save yourself the trouble and set your overnight gear down before you go. You definitely could camp the night at Quoin Head as there is a small campground, though the descent in is pretty steep, and was the main thing that put me off staying there!
My next tip is not to leave without taking a stroll down to Whalebone Beach. I obviously didn’t do this until the next morning (after my misadventure), but I got up as the sun was rising and enjoyed an absolutely stunning twilight hour on the beach. The cove was protected, the huge waves seemed calm (though definitely not for swimming) and the rocks were just waiting to be explored. I was speechless, in awe, and really struggled to leave once the sun had come up.
Tips for Planning Your Hike
The number one thing that keeps you safe on the trail is being properly prepared. This includes:
- Correct clothing for the possible weather (rain jacket, hat & long sleeve shirt, fly net!)
- Knowing where you’re going – I always download offline maps from AllTrails, mainly the Satellite Image map, because there’s never reception when you’re lost!
- Make sure you have enough food and water. Check the Park websites to find out whether camp water tanks will actually have any water in at the time you’re planning to go – or speak directly with a Ranger
- Plan how far you’ll walk each day. Have a backup plan for an overnight camp if you’re attempting anything longer than 20km in one day.
- If you’re leaving your vehicle somewhere overnight contact the Ranger and tell a family member/friend your plan
- If you’re getting a ride with someone have a plan for where you’ll meet them and when, and what you’ll both do if someone doesn’t show up
- Always carry a personal locator beacon and first aid kit
Safety Advice
The Fitzgerald River National Park is pristine for a reason – it is remote and rarely accessed by lots of people. For this reason, I would say it’s vital that you carry a personal emergency location device with you. I have a GME Personal Locator Beacon which you can get from Anaconda Stores.
You should always carry an emergency first aid kit and tell a trusted friend or family member where you are and when you plan to be back. Hiking with a buddy is always going to be safer than going solo, but if you are solo ensure that you do everything I’ve mentioned above to ensure your own peace of mind and safety on the trail.
Be careful during wet weather, particularly when traversing rocks or uneven terrain, especially those right next to the ocean. Waves can be unpredictable, never turn your back on the ocean. Take it slowly and do not attempt anything you’re not comfortable with. Be mindful that there is no phone reception out there.
Leave No Trace
Whenever you’re out in the wild it’s important to leave the place better than you found it. This could include things like picking up any rubbish you see around the place and always using the bins provided. If there are no bins, take your rubbish out of the park with you.
Take all your food scraps with you – orange peels and apple cores are not a normal part of many animals’ diets, and they don’t break down in the soil.
If you see boot-wash stations, be sure to use them no matter what. Their purpose is to allow you to scrub soil and dirt off your shoes. Many areas of Australia are plagued by dieback, an infectious disease that lives in the soil and eventually kills the trees and plants that grow in it. Protect our wilderness by doing your part not to spread disease.
If there are designated trails or paths – stick to them. Cutting your own tracks through bushland can destroy vegetation as well as disrupting the creatures that live there. If you’re photographing or looking at wildlife, ensure that you give animals plenty of space. Use the zoom on your camera instead of getting too close!
Are You Sold Yet?
If spectacular coastlines, stunning sunrises and rainbows over the ocean are your thing then get yourself out onto the Hakea Trail. The wildflowers in Spring will not disappoint and you will be so grateful that you spent the time planning and driving to get to this beautiful part of the world.
If you have any questions feel free to leave a comment.
Happy hiking!