If you’re wondering what you’ll see on the Tunnel Creek Walk or just how much of an adventure it is, you’ve landed in the right place.
Dimalurru, or Tunnel Creek, is an incredible place steeped in a long history. It’s also home to a huge variety of intriguing and beautiful wildlife.
Getting to Dimalurru is a bit of a journey, but you’re about to discover exactly why it’s worth it. Read on to learn about the history, nature, and geology of Tunnel Creek, plus how to get there, what you might find there, and help planning your trip.
* Park Alerts *
The entire Kimberley Region is prone to seasonal rains, which can often mean that many remote places (like Tunnel Creek) can easily become flooded, and the access roads can become flooded or damaged. Always make sure you check the official DBCA Park Alerts website before you go – especially in the weeks and days leading up to your trip.
Must-Know Information Before You Go
Here’s a quick list of information you should know before you plan your trip to Dimalurru:
- Tunnel Creek is open from May to October each year (during the dry season)
- It’s in Dimalurru Tunnel Creek National Park – no dogs or pets are permitted
- National Park entry costs $17 per vehicle, or $10 concession
- It’s 115 km from the nearest town of Fitzroy Crossing
- Access is via 4WD-only – along Fairfield-Leopold Downs Road
- It is 180km from the next-closest town of Derby, via the Gibb River Road
- The ‘Subterranean Trail’ through the Tunnel Creek cave is a 2km return walk
- Always check Park Alerts before you go – heavy rains or fires can cause last-minute National Park closures and road closures
Dimalurru FAQs – How to get there and what to expect
Before we dive into the 11 Things to Discover on the Tunnel Creek Walk, read the answers to some common questions about Tunnel Creek so that you can come prepared – both physically and mentally!
Is the road from Fitzroy Crossing to Tunnel Creek sealed?
No, the road from Fitzroy Crossing to Tunnel Creek is not sealed. The gravel roads (Gibb River Road and Fairfield-Leopold Downs Road) can get heavily corrugated during the peak of the dry season and there are often shallow water-crossings over the road.
When I did the trip through Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek in May there were a few shallow water-crossings, but overall it was a fairly easy drive. The Gibb River Road was a little bit corrugated, but I had come at a lucky time. I was visiting just after the road had been graded in preparation for the Outback Car Trek – an outback odyssey event that has raised over $32 million dollars for the Royal Flying Doctor Service in Australia since its beginning in 1990.
I did the entire 300km journey from Derby to Windjana Gorge, Tunnel Creek, and through to Fitzroy Crossing on one tank of diesel. This was just with a standard 60 litre tank. However, I did carry a jerry can of spare diesel in case my calculations proved to be wrong, or if I decided to take any short side-trips.
Can you get to Tunnel Creek in a 2WD?
No, you cannot get to Tunnel Creek in a 2WD. Access is via Fitzroy Crossing along Fairfield-Leopold Downs Road (gravel), or from Derby via the Gibb River Road (gravel). You will need a 4WD to access Tunnel Creek, particularly to get through the shallow water crossings.
How long is Tunnel Creek Walk?
The Tunnel Creek Walk, also called the Subterranean Trail, is a 2km return walk that takes you all the way through Dimalurru/the Tunnel Creek cave. On the way you will find a caved-in section where light pours through the ceiling, this is half-way. Keep walking to find the other end of the cave, check out the creek and the trees towering above, then turn around and make your way back.
How hard is the Tunnel Creek Walk?
The Dimalurru Tunnel Creek walk is hard, but not for the reasons you might expect. The walk is not for the faint of heart – it truly is an adventure! There is almost always water in the cave, and if you want to make it all the way to the end, you’ll have to wade through fresh water that’s anywhere from ankle deep all the way up to above-head height – you might even have to swim through some sections.
There are some large boulders at the entrance to the cave/tunnel which you’ll have to clamber over. If this is beyond your physical limits then I suggest re-evaluating the walk at this point, the further you go the more challenging the walk becomes. The cave has rocky and uneven ground, water crossings, sandy sections, and muddy sections where you will have to navigate around the edge of the deeper pools.
Total Darkness in Tunnel Creek
You can also expect complete pitch-black darkness through much of the tunnel. If small spaces and dark caves aren’t your thing, then don’t attempt the walk. You’ll need to come prepared with a bright torch and spare batteries, and it won’t be enough to rely on your phone’s torch for light.
Footwear in the Tunnel
The best footwear for Tunnel Creek is lightweight running shoes, all-terrain sandals, or reef shoes. This is because you’ll have to walk through the creek which cuts through the cave. Depending on what time of year you visit, the water can be as low as ankle height and as high as head-height (ie – you’ll be swimming). I wore runners that I was ok with getting soaking wet, it didn’t even cross my mind to take them off through the water sections.
Not Self-Driving?
If you want to visit this incredible place, but don’t have the right vehicle or the confidence… there are plenty of amazing tours you can go on.
This all-inclusive 3-Day Kimberley Outback Adventure from Broome will absolutely knock your socks off – in complete comfort and style! You’ll check off Tunnel Creek, Windjana Gorge, Mount Hart, Lennard Gorge and Horizontal Falls… some of the most truly special places in the region. The tour includes a 40-minute scenic flight, accommodation in luxury tents, safari vehicle tours, and charter flights to and from Broome. Don’t miss out on this once in a lifetime experience!
Now that you know what kind of adventure you’re in for, let’s discover the history and secrets of Dimalurru Tunnel Creek.
1. Dimalurru itself
The flowing waters of Tunnel Creek have carved out the cave that exists today over thousands of years. It’s incredible to walk into the cave entrance and just look up. The cavern is huge, and it’s hard to imagine a torrent of water crashing through the cave.
The creek currently flows through the entire length of the cave and you can see the water body at both ends of the tunnel. Depending on the time of year and recent rainfall, the creek can have any volume of water in it.
Typically, the winter months at Tunnel Creek are the driest and usually have the lowest water levels. When I went in May of 2022 the water was up to my thigh at the deepest points. Even at this level, it was a little bit nerve-racking going through the deeper sections in the dark, also knowing that freshwater crocs were around too. Nonetheless, it was an incredible and adventurous experience that I wasn’t going to miss!
2. Freshwater crocodiles
One of the coolest parts about walking through Dimalurru is knowing that there are freshwater crocodiles roaming around in the dark with you. Because the freshwater in the cave is present year-round, freshwater crocs can inhabit the cave throughout the year too.
Freshwater crocodiles are not known to be aggressive animals, and feed primarily on small insects and fish. They do a great job of hiding and tend to shy away from humans. If you do see one, make sure you keep a good distance, don’t approach it, and remember that it’s a wild animal.
When you’re wading through the water, take your time and try to avoid too much splashing – have some courtesy for those who call the waterholes home!
3. Aboriginal history – Jandamarra’s Hideout
Dimalurru has been home to the Bunuba people for thousands of years, there are countless stories and generations of people who have called it home for a very long time.
Jandamarra’s Story
The Dimalurru story centres around Jandamarra, a young Bunuba man, and his long fight with the first white colonisers and stockmen in the Kimberley.
Since 1885, the stockmen had been trying to conquer and use the land for cattle and crops. Jandamarra befriended some of the stockmen and seemed to bounce between two worlds – one in which he fought for the Bunuba people and their land, and one where he worked for the stockmen on their stations.
There was over ten years of violent fights between the police and the Bunuba people, as the battle for the land went on. From 1894 to 1895, several hundred Bunuba people were murdered at various sites across the area. After this, Jandamarra decided that he must continue the fight for his people – but without violence.
For 2 years after the violent fights the Bunuba taunted the settlers. Eventually, the settlers saw no other way to conquer the pastoral land than to kill Jandamarra. It was in 1897, on a limestone pillar at the entrance to Dimalurru, that Jandamarra was shot and killed. He died defending his people and their land.
Today, reconciliation is a work in progress and the story of Dimalurru serves as a very real reminder of the conflict caused by white settlers in Australia.
4. Bats
One thing that most people associate with caves are bats…hello, Batman. You can expect nothing less at Dimalurru. Bats thrive in warm, humid, and dark environments, making Tunnel Creek the perfect roosting site for many types of bats.
If you’re quiet and keep your torch beams low, you might be lucky enough to spot the colony of flying foxes that sometimes roosts in the tunnel. At dusk the bats fly out to feed on the surrounding woodland trees.
There’s a whole range of other bat species that also call Dimalurru home, such as the orange leaf-nosed bat, common bent-wing bats, the little cave bat, and the yellow-lipped bat which is only found in WA’s Kimberley region.
Ghost bats are particularly special bats as they are Australia’s only carnivorous bat – and they just so happen to make a home in Dimalurru too.
All the bats that live in Dimalurru need total darkness during the day, so be careful when you’re shining your torch around. If you do see a colony of bats, have a quick look but then point your torch elsewhere and keep moving. The less disturbance you create, the better off the bats will be.
5. Boab trees
One of my most treasured sights of WA’s Kimberley are the magnificent boab trees. They are scattered all through the landscape and there are quite a few living around Dimalurru.
The boabs of the Kimberley are native to the north-west of Australia and grow nowhere else on earth. They have the incredible ability to store water through the dry season, and some of the largest and oldest trees can hold up to 100,000 litres of water in their trunk.
If you happen upon a boab, make sure you pause for a moment. Some of these trees are hundreds or even thousands of years old. They have endured more phases of life, death, and growth than any human ever will.
6. Stalactites and Stalagmites
A fascinating part of exploring caves is marvelling at how they formed – pondering the many thousands of years it has taken to carve out solid rock using just water and gravity.
As a geologist I take great pleasure in teaching others about the ways of the earth, and one thing that always gets me are stalactites and stalagmites. As you walk through the cave you’ll see pillars and piles of shiny yellow-grey rock all over the place, and some will have water slowly dripping off them. This is cave-formation happening right before your eyes!
As rainwater and groundwater percolate through the rocks, some of it seeps through to the cave’s inner surface. If the flow is extremely slow, and the humidity just right, the water can pool on the surface of the rocks and start dissolving the soft limestone of the cave. As it does this, the water eventually drips downwards with gravity, taking with it some of the dissolved limestone. These drips pile up on the ground, and accumulate on the cave roof above, forming stalactites and stalagmites.
Wondering how to know what’s a stalactite and what’s a stalagmite? One forms when drips from the ceiling create a hanging pendant, the other is what forms when the drops that hit the floor grow upwards. Eventually – if the conditions are right, the two pointy columns will meet forming one huge continuous pillar!
It’s easy to remember using this little trick – stalaGmites grow from the Ground. And stalacTites drop from the Top.
Look around and you’ll start to see them absolutely everywhere.
7. Discover total darkness
You will reach sections in Dimalurru that are completely pitch black. It’s an eerie feeling being surrounded by the cold cave walls with still pools of water all around you, in complete silence and darkness. You will notice the distant sound of water droplets hitting the cold pools, and the quiet echo as the noise travels through the cave.
The cave is up to 20 metres high and 15 metres wide in some parts, but in others it gets a bit narrower. However, there are no sections (except the entry) where you will have to fit through any small gaps.
To ensure you don’t find yourself in a terrifying situation, ensure that you bring a torch, preferably waterproof, that’s bright – and pack spare batteries.
Strangers to the Rescue
When I arrived, I was pretty clueless about how long Tunnel Creek was and what the walk would be like. I climbed over the rocks in the entrance and spent quite a bit of time discovering the little crustaceans in the water and marvelling at the beautiful limestone cavern. No sooner had I discovered that the torch I packed wasn’t very bright (and that I also didn’t have spare batteries), then a pair of travellers from Queensland showed up.
They asked me if I was scared to go in, and I said ‘no’… but it might have been obvious how reluctant I was with my dim torch. They kindly (and hilariously) offered to take me on a tour of a cave that they had never visited before either… so away we went, albeit with some brighter torches!
We had a great time navigating the waters, looking out for critters, and spotting lurking crocs as we walked thigh-deep through the water. It was such a spontaneous adventure and I felt so lucky to have revelled in the generous traveller spirit that day.
8. A culturally significant place that few people ever come to
Dimalurru is an incredibly sacred and special place. Not only is it in a remote part of the world, it is only accessible by four wheel drive. This means that if you do visit, you will be one of the very few people to set foot in this special place.
Dimalurru Tours
Bungoolee Tours offer a few guided walking tours with a Bunuba elder, where you can learn firsthand about the cultural and spiritual significance of this special place. Make sure you check out their website to find a tour that’ll get straight to the heart of Dimalurru and its people.
9. Touch an ancient limestone reef & find endless life
The Tunnel Creek cave is made of an ancient coral reef that formed 350 million years ago during the earth’s Devonian Period. The ancient reef can be traced in a huge U-shape across the Kimberley from Wyndham to Derby, and you can even see it on satellite maps.
Look closely to see if you can find any fossils hiding in plain sight in the rocks. I saw hundreds of cool shells and corals in the cave walls, which painted the picture of life all those millions of years ago.
Dimalurru is also home to tiny crustaceans that clean up the water, known as cherubin, plus there are hundreds of other animals such as spiders, catfish, bony bream, rainbow fish, perch, frogs, and maybe a snake or two if you’re lucky enough to see one.
10. It’s a great spot for a picnic lunch
The day-use area at Tunnel Creek is pretty well-appointed for a place that’s so remote. There are toilets, picnic tables, lots of information boards and an information shelter. This makes it the perfect place to rest up and have some lunch before you continue on with your journey.
11. Want to explore a bit longer? Camp at nearby Windjana Gorge
If you can’t get enough of Dimalurru and want to come back the next day, or you just want to spend more time exploring the area, then a night at Bandiln͟gan (Windjana Gorge) Campground is just the thing.
Windjana Gorge made the perfect half-way point on my mini-expedition, so I stayed a night at the campsite. I was completely amazed that the campground had showers and flushing toilets, plus shady trees, picnic benches and fire pits.
One area of the campground is set aside for those with generators, while the other part is the ‘quiet side’. It goes without saying that the Windjana Gorge Campground is remote, so bring everything you need with you including plenty of food and drinking water, and take all your rubbish with you when you leave.
Some handy tips to know about Windjana Gorge Campground:
- Bookings are essential and should be made online before arrival.
- You cannot pre-select a campsite – pick one when you arrive (campsites are not numbered).
- Print or screenshot your booking so that you can show the Ranger when they come around to check your booking. The ranger came around at about 5pm to check my booking and we had a quick friendly chat.
- There’s generally no phone reception at Windjana Gorge Campground. I got a little bit of weak and patchy Telstra reception while I was there.
- Camping costs $40 per site per night.
- You’ll also need to pay National Park entry fees ($17 per vehicle).
Can you think of any other amazing things to see or learn at Dimalurru?
If you’ve seen any other unique creatures or have some interesting stories of your own about Dimalurru, I’d love to hear about them in the comments!
Heading to El Questro too?
If you’re planning a big road trip and haven’t already got the incredible El Questro on your list… you’re going to miss out! Check out this guide to one of the most underrated places in the park – Champagne Springs.
